Main Facts
Independent watchmaking has a new focal point of desire. Kurono Tokyo, the celebrated independent brand founded by master Japanese watchmaker Hajime Asaoka, has returned with a release that has sent shockwaves through the horological community. Following the massive success of the Tokyo Grand Jubilee Calendar—a triple calendar timepiece launched in 2025 to commemorate Asaoka’s 60th birthday—the brand is introducing a follow-up edition: the Kurono Tokyo Calendrier Small Batch Release (SBR) in Saxe Blue.
Known for translating Asaoka’s ultra-exclusive, bespoke high-end handmade pieces into more accessible wristwatches infused with deep Japanese aesthetic sensibilities, Kurono Tokyo occupies a unique sweet spot in modern horology. However, this accessibility comes with a caveat: staggering demand. Watches bearing the Kurono Tokyo script routinely sell out within minutes of launch.
The new Calendrier SBR maintains the mechanical layout and classical proportions of its predecessor while introducing distinct artisanal refinements. Most notably, it features a captivating, high-gloss Saxe blue dial—a long-standing personal passion project for Asaoka—paired with intricate electroformed applied numerals. Offered as a "Small Batch Release," the watch will be produced in exceptionally limited quantities, ensuring that it remains an elusive trophy for collectors worldwide.
Priced at USD 2,380 (excluding VAT), the watch goes on sale globally via the Kurono Tokyo website on Thursday, 24 September, at 11:00 P.M. JST, governed by a strict one-piece-per-customer policy.
Chronology: From Bespoke Masterpieces to Small Batch Pursuits
To understand the weight of the new Calendrier SBR, one must trace the distinct trajectory of Hajime Asaoka’s career and the birth of his independent venture.
The Evolution of an Icon
Hajime Asaoka originally trained as a product designer before teaching himself the hyper-complex art of traditional independent watchmaking. Operating entirely outside the traditional Swiss establishment, Asaoka gained global acclaim for crafting mesmerizing, high-end handmade tourbillons and complex timepieces in Tokyo. Recognizing that his bespoke masterpieces—often costing tens or hundreds of thousands of dollars—were financially out of reach for most enthusiasts, Asaoka founded Kurono Tokyo to democratize his design philosophy.
Utilizing reliable Japanese mechanical movements from Seiko and Miyota, Kurono Tokyo quickly built a diverse portfolio spanning chronographs, rugged divers, elegant three-handers, and artisanal models featuring traditional urushi lacquer dials.
The 2025 Milestone
The current chapter of the Calendrier story began in 2025, when Kurono Tokyo launched the Grand Jubilee Calendar to mark Asaoka’s 60th birthday. Serving as an evolution of the brand’s earlier Calendrier Type 1, the Jubilee edition charmed collectors with its warm salmon-pink dial, vertical guilloché-style central texturing, and comprehensive triple-calendar complication powered by a Miyota automatic movement. That model vanished from digital shelves instantly, leaving many disappointed collectors empty-handed.
The Genesis of the Saxe Blue SBR
The motivation behind the new Calendrier SBR is twofold. Practically speaking, it leverages unallocated movements and surplus component stocks. Creatively, however, it is a deeply personal endeavor.
As Asaoka candidly admits, "I could never quite get the Saxe blue out of my mind. So, purely as a personal passion project, I decided to revisit the idea."
After submitting countless dial samples to achieve the exact, highly specific shade of Saxe blue—distinguished from the icy Shiraai tone of previous models by a richer, high-gloss finish—Asaoka greenlit the Small Batch Release. Previews opened to the public from September 16 to 24 at Kurono Tokyo’s physical salons in Aoyama and Shanghai, setting the stage for the global digital drop on September 24.
Supporting Data: Specifications & Craftsmanship
Despite its relatively accessible price point, the Kurono Tokyo Calendrier SBR exhibits a level of detail and manufacturing sophistication rarely seen in its tier.
Case Architecture & Ergonomics
The watch is housed in a polished 316L stainless steel case measuring a versatile 38mm in diameter. Comfort and wrist presence are optimized by a slender profile: the case is just 11.5mm thick including the box-shaped sapphire crystal, and a remarkably slim 10mm without it. The case back is a solid, screwed steel plate, contributing to a daily-wear-friendly 50 meters of water resistance. Notably, unlike the anniversary edition, the SBR features a clean, flat crown devoid of a cabochon, streamlining its profile.
+--------------------+---------------------------------------------------------------+
| TECHNICAL FEATURE | SPECIFICATION |
+--------------------+---------------------------------------------------------------+
| Case Material | Polished 316L Stainless Steel |
| Case Diameter | 38mm |
| Thickness | 11.5mm (incl. box sapphire crystal) / 10mm (excl. crystal) |
| Water Resistance | 50 meters (5 ATM) |
| Dial Color | High-Gloss Saxe Blue with vertical guilloché-inspired stamping|
| Movement | Miyota 9122 Automatic (Triple Calendar) |
| Frequency | 28,800 vph (4 Hz) |
| Power Reserve | 40 Hours |
| Strap | 20/16mm Black Calfskin Leather with Steel Pin Buckle |
| Price | USD 2,380 (excluding VAT) |
+--------------------+---------------------------------------------------------------+Dial Artistry and Electroforming
The crown jewel of this release is undoubtedly the dial. The matte-textured, high-gloss Saxe blue central field features embossed vertical lines directly inspired by the hand-guilloché work found on Asaoka’s high-end tourbillon creations.
To ensure supreme legibility and visual contrast, the calendar layout utilizes recessed, smooth-surfaced sub-dials:
- The sub-dial at 12 o’clock tracks the months.
- The sub-dial at 9 o’clock indicates the days of the week.
- A stepped window at 6 o’clock displays the date against a clean white-on-black or coordinated disc background.
Surrounding the central dial is a wide, smooth peripheral chapter ring. Instead of traditional stamped numerals, Kurono Tokyo has employed electroforming to create the gleaming chrome Arabic indices. This manufacturing technique allows for razor-sharp, intricate geometries that catch the light dynamically. Framing these are domed, bent, and highly polished hour and minute hands that sweep smoothly above the dial.
The Engine Within
Powering the Calendrier SBR is the Miyota calibre 9122, a proven and robust automatic movement. Operating at a modern frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour (4 Hz) and featuring 26 jewels, the movement offers a reliable 40-hour power reserve. It drives the central hours, minutes, and sweep seconds alongside the comprehensive triple calendar complications without missing a beat.
The watch is fitted with a supple, premium 20mm black calfskin leather strap that tapers to 16mm, secured by a classic stainless steel pin buckle.
Official Responses and Launch Protocol
Kurono Tokyo has established a meticulous protocol for the release of the Calendrier SBR to combat automated scalping bots and ensure fair access for genuine collectors.
In an official statement accompanying the launch, Hajime Asaoka reflected on the emotional resonance of the piece:
"When we released the Grand Jubilee Calendar, the response was overwhelming. But design is an ongoing dialogue with one’s own aesthetic ideals. Saxe blue carries a specific historical elegance and visual calm that I felt deserved its own dedicated platform. The Small Batch Release format allows us to execute this vision without compromise."
How to Buy
Given that the production numbers are strictly limited ("Small Batch Release" implies quantities significantly lower than standard production runs), acquiring one will require preparation:
- Account Registration: Buyers must register for a free Kurono Tokyo account at kuronotokyo.com.
- Launch Time: Sales officially open on Thursday, 24 September, at 11:00 P.M. JST.
- Restrictions: Purchases are strictly capped at one watch per customer to prevent hoarding.
- Fulfillment: Deliveries are scheduled to commence globally starting in October.
For collectors unable to purchase online immediately, physical preview samples remain on display through September 24 at Kurono Tokyo’s experiential salons in Aoyama, Tokyo, and Shanghai.
Implications: The State of Independent Micro-Hautlogerie
The arrival of the Kurono Tokyo Calendrier SBR in Saxe Blue highlights several broader trends shaping the contemporary watch market.
1. The Proliferation of "Small Batch" Strategies
As major Swiss houses grapple with production caps and waiting lists, independent brands are pioneering agile manufacturing models. By utilizing unallocated component stocks for spontaneous passion projects like the SBR, independent creators can bypass rigid annual product cycles. This keeps collectors engaged with sudden, high-excitement micro-releases that carry the emotional weight of limited editions without the formal bureaucratic labels.
2. Democratizing Mastercraft Design
Hajime Asaoka continues to bridge the chasm between hyper-exclusive independent watchmaking and accessible consumer horology. By incorporating high-end finishing techniques—such as electroformed numerals and tourbillon-derived guilloché patterns—into a sub-$2,500 Miyota-powered timepiece, Kurono Tokyo redefines what entry-level luxury can achieve. It proves that mechanical accessibility does not necessitate aesthetic compromise.
3. The Digital Battlefield
The predictable, near-instantaneous sell-out of Kurono Tokyo releases underscores the intense fervor of modern watch collecting. In an era where digital storefronts act as battlegrounds, brands must constantly adapt their security measures—such as mandatory user accounts and strict one-piece limits—to protect their communities from automated resale rings.
Ultimately, the Kurono Tokyo Calendrier Small Batch Release in Saxe Blue is more than just a watch; it is a physical manifestation of a master watchmaker’s unyielding creative itch. For the fortunate few who manage to secure one on September 24, it offers a tangible slice of Tokyo’s independent avant-garde—a masterpiece of color, geometry, and mechanical honesty ready to be worn on the wrist.
