By Maria Doulton | 10 September 2026
In the concrete landscape of Manhattan, where the urban grid is defined by rigid angles and steel-and-glass skyscrapers, a singular, organic force has emerged from beneath the pavement. At Little West 12th Street, directly beneath the elevated pathways of the High Line, Bvlgari has unveiled auruBOROS—a breathtaking, pneumatic sculpture that serves as the latest stage for the Italian maison’s most enduring icon: the Serpenti.
This temporary installation, which runs from September 10 to September 20, 2026, marks a significant milestone for Bvlgari. It is the brand’s first major public art commission in the United States, serving as a high-octane centerpiece for the "Serpenti Infinito" global tour. Having traversed the cultural epicenters of Rome, Shanghai, Seoul, and Mumbai, the Serpenti has arrived in New York, proving once again that its appeal is as boundless as the mythology that inspires it.
The Convergence of Art and Architecture
auruBOROS is more than a mere display; it is an architectural intervention. Conceived by the Berlin-based artistic duo Plastique Fantastique—Marco Canevacci and Yena Young—the installation challenges the viewer’s perception of space. The sculpture appears as if it is physically bursting through the asphalt, with golden, pneumatic coils rising and twisting in a mimicry of the serpent’s sinuous movement.
Plastique Fantastique is renowned for their ability to blur the lines between the built environment and the imagined landscape. By choosing this duo, Bvlgari has underscored its commitment to innovation. The sculpture invites the public to engage with the brand’s Roman heritage in a decidedly contemporary, subterranean, and distinctly New York fashion. It represents the "infinite" nature of the Serpenti—a creature that sheds its skin, reinvents itself, and persists through time.
A Chronology of the Serpenti Infinito Tour
The Serpenti Infinito project was designed to be a living, breathing dialogue between Bvlgari’s heritage and the global cities that host it. The tour has functioned as a cultural prism, refracting the essence of the Serpenti through the specific lens of each destination:
- Rome: The origin point, where the Serpenti was established as a symbol of wisdom, vitality, and eternal youth.
- Shanghai: The tour explored the intersection of tradition and futuristic architectural ambition, mirroring the city’s towering skyline.
- Seoul: The installation focused on precision, discipline, and the high-tech elegance characteristic of South Korean craftsmanship.
- Mumbai: The narrative shifted to the richness of textile traditions and intricate, artisanal detailing, celebrating the vibrancy of Indian aesthetics.
- New York (Present): The current chapter highlights the raw, industrial power of the city—a place where, as Bvlgari posits, an "underground force" is made visible through art.
High Jewellery: Where Art Meets American Iconography
The launch event was a star-studded affair, attended by Bvlgari ambassadors Anne Hathaway, Dua Lipa, and Lisa. Both Hathaway and Lipa debuted exclusive, one-of-a-kind high jewellery pieces created specifically for the New York event. These creations demonstrate a daring synthesis of Bvlgari’s Roman soul and the influence of American artistic masters.
The Pollock Influence: Serpenti Falling Drops
Anne Hathaway was captured in the Serpenti Falling Drops necklace, a masterwork of white gold and diamonds. The design draws from the frenetic energy of Jackson Pollock’s drip paintings. Suspended from the serpent’s mouth is a staggering 23.13-carat triangular aquamarine, appearing as if it were captured in mid-motion, embodying the spirit of abstract expressionism and liberated line work.
The Jasper Johns Tribute: Serpenti Flag
Lisa debuted the Serpenti Flag necklace and bracelet, a bold interpretation of the American flag. Utilizing a sophisticated palette of tanzanite, coral, and diamonds set in rose gold, the piece reimagines patriotic imagery through the prism of Italian high jewellery. It is a testament to the brand’s ability to localize its aesthetic without compromising its signature luxury.
The Guggenheim Spiral: Serpenti Helix
Dua Lipa graced the event wearing the Serpenti Helix necklace, an homage to Frank Lloyd Wright’s architectural masterpiece, the Solomon R. Guggenheim Museum. The piece pairs a white gold, diamond-encrusted serpent with a classic yellow gold tubogas choker. A detachable 5.46-carat Tanzanian spinel serves as the final, dramatic flourish, offering the wearer versatility—a hallmark of Bvlgari’s modern approach to high jewellery.
The Miami Deco Connection: Serpenti Ocean Deco
Bridging the gap between New York and the broader American cultural landscape, the Serpenti Ocean Deco necklace channels the geometric glamour of Miami’s Art Deco seafront. With a serpent coiling in rose gold, adorned with malachite, onyx, and rubellites, the piece centers on a 17.98-carat cushion-cut rubellite. It is a vivid, opulent study in contrast and symmetry.
Official Perspectives: The Vision of Bvlgari
The significance of the New York installation is best captured by Laura Burdese, the newly appointed CEO of Bvlgari. During the launch, she noted:
"With Serpenti Infinito New York, Bvlgari reaffirms its enduring commitment to art as a universal language that connects cultures, inspires dialogue, and celebrates creativity in all its forms. Bringing Serpenti to one of the world’s most dynamic cultural capitals marks a meaningful new chapter in the icon’s extraordinary journey. As a symbol of perpetual transformation and infinite renewal, Serpenti invites us to embrace change as a source of beauty, innovation, and inspiration."
Burdese’s words highlight a strategic pivot for the brand. By embedding itself in the public consciousness of New York through temporary, high-impact art, Bvlgari is shifting the narrative of "luxury" from static product display to experiential cultural contribution.
Implications for the Global Jewellery Market
The success of auruBOROS and the accompanying high jewellery collection suggests a broader shift in the high-jewellery industry. Brands are no longer content with traditional boutique-centric marketing. Instead, they are positioning their products as art objects, commissioning avant-garde creators to build contexts that elevate their inventory to the status of museum-grade artifacts.
Furthermore, the integration of American artists—from Pollock to Wright—into the design ethos of the Serpenti suggests that Bvlgari is successfully capturing the "American spirit" to deepen its market penetration. By creating bespoke, one-of-a-kind pieces that reference local history, the brand creates a sense of exclusivity that is highly coveted by the ultra-high-net-worth demographic.
Expanding the Serpenti Universe: Tubogas and Beyond
Beyond the high-concept necklaces, the New York event also introduced an expansion of the classic Serpenti Tubogas line. These pieces remain the accessible, wearable backbone of the Serpenti identity. The new collection features a single tubogas coil bracelet, matching earrings, and a brooch, all defined by their flexible coils and the signature "mesmerizing gaze" created by onyx inlays in the serpent’s eyes.
Additionally, the collaboration with designer Mary Katrantzou continues to flourish. The new minaudière—inspired by the 1968 Serpenti Harlequin—is a marvel of craftsmanship. Featuring hand-enamelled scales and a secret clasp that pays homage to the 1950s Serpenti Misteriosi secret watches, it serves as a bridge between the brand’s mid-century history and the needs of the modern consumer.
A Legacy Renewed
As the auruBOROS installation prepares to vacate its space beneath the High Line, the resonance of the event will likely linger. Bvlgari has managed to do something rare in the world of high jewellery: it has taken a legendary, long-standing design and made it feel urgent.
The Serpenti is no longer just a watch or a necklace; it is a conceptual entity that thrives on the energy of the city it inhabits. Whether it is reflecting the architectural curves of the Guggenheim or the abstract drips of a Pollock canvas, the serpent continues to shed its skin, emerging as something new, yet entirely, quintessentially Bvlgari.
In a world that is increasingly digital and transient, the physical weight of gold and gemstones, paired with the ephemeral nature of a public art installation, offers a grounding experience. As the Serpenti Infinito tour looks toward its next destination, the mark it has left on the New York landscape serves as a reminder that beauty, when properly contextualized, is indeed infinite.
